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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.